When I was young, my mother used to make a favorite dish of spiced braised beef and okra. It is also called Hindi Gosht. I love the texture and flavour. I would mix it with aromatic basmati rice and raise my mouth to taste heaven. It was also a welcome change from the peanut butter and strawberry jam or cheese sandwiches I had been eating almost every day.
One day, in Madame Santerre’s third grade class, I took out my blue thermos (yes, with the matching Holly Hobby lunch box) and opened the lid. Immediately the scents spread in the air and she smiled. It tasted like home. But it was too much for my colleagues in Halifax during the 1980s.
“What is this smell?” shouted a colleague of mine. Surprised, I quickly covered the thermos to try and reduce the odors. But I was too late. The delicious smells spread quickly and suddenly my traditional cuisine was a laughing stock.
“It smells like doo doo!” My very blond colleague pointed and laughed. He finished with cheese and crackers. He smiled, proud that he had received the attention he loved.
Watch: Celebrate your diversity with your brunch
Canadian tennis star Leila Fernandez is expressing some of the backlash she faced when she brought Peruvian food to school.
I was insulted. I put the thermos away and decided to have a crunchy McIntosh apple instead – tart flavor without any of the distortion. I never took Bhindi Gosht to school again. Looking back, I wish I had the strength to tell that boy to shut up or ignore him. I remember that moment clearly almost 40 years later. I also remember how no one said anything in defense. Most of all, I remember how hungry I stayed until I got home and then ate my leftovers in peace and comfort in my own home.
Recently, I interviewed a young Canadian tennis phenom that brought back this moment for me in a way I didn’t expect. On the heels of the big win for 21-year-old Leila Fernandez and Team Canada at the tournament Billie Jean King CupFernandez talked to me about tennis but also about identity and food.
As someone of Ecuadorian and Filipino descent, Fernandez told me that as she grows older, she examines social issues in a different way with the help of her family. As a young, racialized athlete with an immigrant history, she welcomes discussions on different issues and stands behind her principles and family traditions. She is also very proud of her identities although it is not always common in the historically white world of tennis.
“Talking about [issues in society] “We can encourage younger children to feel proud of themselves and where they or their parents originally come from,” Fernandez said. “We can accept them and welcome them with open arms into any sport, in a team setting, where they can feel confident and secure.” “They can enjoy the sport the way it was meant to be.”
Watch: Fernandes leads Canada to the Billie Jean Cup:
Laval, Q. She defeated fellow Italian Yasmine Paolini in straight sets (6-2, 6-3) to propel Canada to a 2-0 victory and its first-ever Billie Jean King Cup title.
Fernandez said there were moments when she sometimes felt embarrassed to take guateta (Peruvian tripe stew) to school.
“It’s difficult because it feels so unnatural,” she said. “This was a dish that I was shy or afraid of what other kids might think.”
Ultimately, Fernandez was proud of her heritage and knew the food was cooked with love.
“I knew they prepared food with love… and wanted us to experience happiness, love and acceptance,” she said. Those are the values with which her food is made and shared.
While Fernandez’s personal philosophy is steeped in kindness, it is also coupled with pride. Fernandez has partnered with Ritz For an amazing campaign to encourage children to be proud of themselves and family traditions, including food. The campaign seeks to create safe spaces for children in the lunchroom to celebrate different cultures through the meals they bring to school.
The microsite also offers various recipes from different cultures, and a video of children talking and sharing their traditional foods. I cried when I watched it the first time and shared my reaction with Fernandez who laughed kindly and offered very kind words of understanding.
“Lunch box moment” It may seem very simple, but it can also have a profound impact. Food and sports are two deep connections in the community, and it makes perfect sense for Fernandez to be an ambassador for this campaign.
It also makes a lot of sense when she explains that her favorite dishes are aji de galena (spicy Peruvian chicken soup) and seco de carne (a delicious, juicy dried beef soup) and she misses eating them while she’s on the road. Preparation takes a long time and sometimes her parents don’t have the time and Fernandez admits she eats a lot of pasta on the road, which is good but it doesn’t remind her of home.
Like most elite athletes, she adheres to personalized nutritional plans while competing and training. But her connection to this campaign is very clear when she loves traditional and home-cooked foods. She also offers some sage advice for the younger generation, some of which the young Shireen could have used decades ago.
“Don’t listen to other people’s opinions,” Fernandez said. “And be proud of where you come from, where your parents come from. And be proud of the food. Food is ultimately part of our culture and you bring it home and introduce it to the world.”
Although Fernandez resides in Miami to train, she considers family where her family is. But that doesn’t mean she doesn’t miss good old Canadian cuisine. It may surprise you to know that Fernandez misses Putin the most. She’s happy to dive into the first place she sees that has a good reputation: French fries with cheese curds and gravy.
I love to cook, and when I had my children, I always encouraged them to enjoy our food. They grew up unapologetic and value effort and cultural connection. But not everyone is taught or feels this way. In my house, the foods I enjoy eating the most are beef ribs and tartare (Marinated minced beef with peas).
We live in a world where bhindhi gosht, guatita, Ribs and poutine can live next to each other and thrive on a table at a family gathering or friends dinner. And they deserve to coexist happily in the lunch room.
Perhaps we needed a reminder about one of our country’s greatest young tennis talents.
