We checked out Chef Jenő Rácz’s Michelin-starred restaurant.
Opened in May Jenny Rakez, Michelin Star Chef bear his name Common, but no one should be surprised if for the first time you pass smoothly through the newest and most sophisticated restaurants in Budapest that offer fine gastronomy – because with so many surprises and so many small gestures, this mystery is also part of the concept of a place that evokes the atmosphere of great pubs.
As its name suggests, Rumor’s basic idea was to create a restaurant that would offer a gastronomic experience, details of which are known only to those who have previously been there. The concept for the place at Petőfi tér 3 comes from Chef Jenő Rácz.
“It was always exciting for me to get into restaurants where I had to compete for a seat,” he recalls. Jenny Focus The experience he gained during his career in many countries.
And the secret rumor begins there, even if you know the address. One reason for this is that it is hidden by huge red curtains drawn from the street front behind its glass gates, and it is not even certain that the emergency exit sign hanging on the door that looks like the entrance, tells us that the restaurant is accessible through the adjacent delicatessen. Here, after confirmation at the box office – you can participate only in the six-course gastronomic show starting at 6:30 p.m. and 11 in the 11-course food show only with pre-registration – you can sign up for the code through the door of the cold room. Restaurant Square, hence it turns out that we are somewhere halfway between the secretive realms of English members only and private clubs and American pubs dating back to the Renaissance, which are only living its renaissance.
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Meanwhile, contemporary Hungarian artworks such as The Landing on the Hungarian Moon by Gabor Geris attract attention. “Except for galleries and museums, nowhere else in Hungary today is a selection of contemporary artwork of this caliber visible on the walls,” he explains. Punta Gaspar Architect, Interior DesignZ, one of Rumor’s designers. It would be hard to argue with that statement, given a piece from the 2000 István Nádler series, the work of APRH cyclist Maria Polypon or a statue of Judith Rita Rabotsky – the only piece not from the private collection of owner, Karolyi Gerendai.
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As is customary in fine-dining restaurants, there is indeed a choreography upon arrival: for the first time, guests are directed to a bar in the gallery for a welcome drink. On this level are the pigeons – where, in addition to the works of Tamás Konok and Franyó AAtoth, we can meet a large group of pigeon ducks. The offices and English Club Room also have the feel of a function room with spiced walnut paneling, dark green walls, comfortable armchairs, and soft rugs in stark contrast to the industrial vibe of the space below. The gallery is connected to the restaurant below by lined glass surfaces – visible from above, but only silhouettes visible from below. Back on the lower level, everyone in the restaurant can take a seat in the comfortable leather seating of the huge bar counter in the middle of the square.
“We enhance the restaurant experience by allowing guests to see what is being prepared and while the chef and his assistants are serving food and drink and talking to the guests. In this way, the guests get a performance-filled tasting experience”- sums up the concept Carole Grenday, who also emphasized that in addition to Jenő Rácz, the store manager plays an important role, Gergely Kő to the sommelier and Zoltán Szabó to the waiter He is.
Theatrical experience also appears in appearances. Visible concrete walls are associated with the vinyl floor, while the polished frame of the industrial-style space is intentionally characterized by theatrical accessories such as heavy curtains mounted on motorized cornices, but the subtle detailing of the space and lighting also evoke the world of theatre. Plus, everything comes to the highest standards: the bar counter is made of burnt oak handcrafted in the traditional Japanese manner, the red marble counters on the chef’s table are chipped and laser cut, and the almost complete wine cooler 200.
At the same time, the kitchen has also received a unique personal tone: recipes appear on black tiles, shelves are lined with the chef’s own brew, but even the shapes of the dishes are distinctive. Here is a balloon shaped dish, and another is the chef’s palm print – which took three and a half hours of stillness for the chef to say, as guests eat from the palm of his hand.
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And what kind of cuisine can we actually encounter in Rumor since it was a mix? “I would probably say ‘grateful’. I’ve come across a variety of ingredients in the world and love amazing things. These include a baby crab called Ebit, which I use as a flavor enhancer, and Chinese black vinegar. Just as we hid a little joke everywhere in the equipment, so too with the food, It’s not all it seems.”
Gáspár Bonta concludes his exit by saying, “It was an honor and pleasure to be involved in the creation of a world-class restaurant that, in addition to its standing anywhere in the world, also carries the essence of Budapest and the city.” Back for delicacies, we find ourselves in a shop where, in addition to gourmet specialties, we can even take home RJ lettering chef tongs as a souvenir.
The article is Octagon Deco 2021/3. in their number Back.
